As I leave the small local restaurant, the car turns right and joins the San Miguel road. Its a better road and we start to pick up some speed. The area is full of lemon and orange trees and after a mile or so we pass Can Planells, which overlooks a fertile valley www.canplanells.com. I stayed there once and it was very peaceful with an excellent host by the name of Juan. Homemade farm produce and good value accommodation in a traditional Ibicenco setting.
As we approach the village of San Miguel, we merge onto the main road. Its important to take a left turn here rather than travelling out the signposted Benniras road. Not much to recommend in the village except for the Church, which is located on the hilltop overlooking the hamlet. Its well worth a visit, so I drive up the hill and park in the square, where there is a small bar that doubles up as a Tabaconist shop. Its been in the same family for many generations and it reeks of simple character. Its one of my favourite places to sit back and have a drink outside on its cobbled courtyard. After a visit to the church, which also defended its population from pirate attacks within its fortified walls, I travel back down the hill and take a left turn heading out the Puerto San Miguel road.
| Views from Hotel Hacienda. |
Its a dangerous road, with twists, turns and sharp bends all on a descent into the bay of San Miguel, which was developed into a small tourist resort, complete with all inclusive hotels built into the cliff face without any regard to the environment. Some beautiful areas of Ibiza suffer from the bad planning of hotels, which stain the complexion of its beauty like an ugly scar to the face. The Bay of San Miguel despite the concrete, is still beautiful and its a resort I enjoy visiting with my family for its laid back and safe family environment. The well known Hotel Hacienda de Xamena www.hotelhacienda-ibiza.com a 5 star property with stunning cliff top views out over the Mediterranean, is on a road to the left as we drive into Puerto San Miguel. The turn to the right is the road I want to take to Benirras beach, but instead I drive to the end of the road to visit Restaurant Balansat, a fresh fish restaurant renowned for its fish stew. The owner Miguel is a friend and we sit back and have a chat over a glass of Can Rich. He persuades me to stay for something to eat, which is not hard to do, as the food is always fresh, homemade and unpretentious.
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| Can Marca Caves |
I leave Restaurant Balansat with a refreshed body and a smile on my face and head out the Benirras road. I take the left turn signposted for the Can Marca caves and climb up into the hills again. Its a steep accent along the small road, which also provides access to the hotels built into the cliff face of the bay. When we reach the summit, the views out over the bay and sea are spectacular. The road is cut into the cliff face and its twists and turns dangerously with the contour of the coast. We soon pass the popular Can Marca caves at Cova Can Marca, a 10,000 year old cave discovered by smugglers in the 1500’s. The decent into Benirras is one of the most exciting drives in Ibiza. Flashing glimpses through the pine trees of sharp blue sea and the famous “Finger of God” builds the anticipation of reaching somewhere special.
| The Finger of God in Benirras Bay. |
The area around Benirras has that special raw energy about it. Its as if the bay of Benniras was once a port of reverence in ancient times. You almost expect a boat from Homers Odyssey to come sailing around the rocks. Its here, that every Sunday, the local Hippies come to witness the special sunset that only the bay of Benirras can provide. The beat their drums and dance at the imposing rock that points to the heavens like a finger from the sea, giving the sunset at Benirras its unique vibe. Its almost primeval and has to be experienced to fully understand its energy.
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